How to install paver brick




















Failure to ensure that the surface of the pavers is free from polymeric sand may cause damage to the pavers. Apply a fine mist of water to the polymeric sand to activate the binder. Follow the instructions on the bag and repeat if necessary. Do not apply polymeric sand if rain is in the forecast!

After the installation is complete, including the edge restrains, run the plate compactor over the pavers. Compacting the pavers helps settle the pavers into the bedding sand and creates a flat surface. It is recommended to use a minimum of three passes with the plate compactor going in different directions. Now that your paver project is complete you may use it immediately. For driveways it is recommended that you wait at least 24 hours to drive on the driveway if concrete edge restraints were used.

You may want to mist the top of the pavers to wash the extra sand into the joints of the pavers. Augustine - Fernandina - Amelia Island. Do you have any questions that I can help you with? Utility Service Locate Make sure to contact your local utility companies to locate any underground wires or cables at least 48 hours before digging or excavating. This is usually a free service provided to homeowners and contractors. You can dial from anywhere in the United States to order a locate.

Add this measurement to your base depth to calculate how deep you should excavate. Using spray paint, mark out the area that you plan to excavate making to to extend outwards approximately 6 inches farther than where you plan for the bricks to end.

This will provide a firm foundation for the paver to rest on and allow extra room for any necessary adjustments. For marking circles, place a stake in the centerpoint of the circle and tie a string to the can of spray paint a few inches longer than the radius of the circle. While keeping the string taught, mark the circumference of the circle to be excavated.

Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Make a plan. A good plan is essential to a successful paver project. Think about where you want your path, driveway , or patio , and then use graph paper to make a scaled drawing of the immediate area.

Draw in your paver project. You'll have to play around with your design a bit, so be sure to use pencil and keep your drawing neat.

Your project will need to have adequate drainage if you want it to be safe and durable. You'll also want to make sure that it slopes away from your house and other structures. Check with your local utilities company before starting any construction. Installing pavers may be easy, but it's necessary to check with your local utilities company before beginning to ensure that you don't accidentally strike or obtrude any cables or pipes. You can do this by calling , also known as the Digline.

Choose the pavers. You have a lot of choices in the pavers you use. Most are brick or concrete , but you can find a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. Find a style that is to your liking and that fits your budget either online or at your local builders supply store. You should order a bit extra because you'll almost certainly end up having to cut some of the pavers to get the right fit.

The fancier your outline, the more pavers you'll have to cut. Keep in mind that pavers are extremely heavy. It is best to have them delivered for this reason. There may be a pallet fee as well. Mark the area with white marking paint. White marking paint works well and helps the locate service see exactly where the work area. Another option is to outline the project area.

You can use string or garden hose to outline your project. Drive stakes to hold the outline in place and use a triangle to make clean corners. Scope your slope. To avoid water pooling on your pavers, you want your pavers to be slightly above the surface of the surrounding ground at all points.

Thus, when planning the slope, begin with what will be the highest point. Typically, this is the point at the bottom of the front door or otherwise closest to the house. Drive a stake at the high point, and mark the correct height where the pavers will meet the door or structure.

Tie a string around the stake at that height. Drive a stake if there isn't already one at the outer boundary of your project. This will be your lowest point. Attach a line level to your string and then tie the loose end of the string around the outer stake at the height at which the line level tells you the entire string is level. Move your string down to this line. String cross-lines down the length of the project to ensure you mark the correct depth across the entire project. If your project area has a variety of slopes, or if your design is irregular, you'll need to repeat this process in several points.

It is absolutely critical that you get the slope right, so the more stakes, the better. You may want to consider hiring someone who know how to use a transit or laser level and measuring rod. They can achieve the same results in less time. Make sure to remove the string before you start digging, or you may end up tripping on it. Part 2. Excavate the installation area. Spaces which will be exposed only to foot traffic generally need " of base material, while driveways or projects in very wet soil may need as much as 12" of base.

Figure out how deep your base will need to be consult the manufacturer or your building supply store , and add about The sum of the depth of the base, the sand, and the pavers will be how deep you need to excavate your project area. Be sure to excavate " beyond the boundaries of the project to give you ample space to install your edge restraints.

This is important. Also, try to level and smooth out the soil where the paver edging will go. In order to achieve best results, we recommend dividing it into three layers and compacting between each layer. Repeat several times with the plate compactor once it has been spread evenly.

Level, slope, and grade your compacted gravel to match your established height. A well-maintained paved area requires edging. Pavers will move if edge restraints are not installed on the edges. The harsh weather and heavy traffic, as well as the lack of edge restraints, will ruin your paved surface. Edge restraints can be made from plastic, wood, concrete precast or metal. The compacted base material is covered with a layer of bedding sand before the pavers are laid.

It serves as a base for the pavers. Sand bedding also protects sand joints from erosion. A PVC pipe of one inch diameter should be laid along the bass material. Spread a layer of sand about one and a half inches thick. The PVC pipe must be carefully removed. By using this technique, an inch-thick layer of sand is ensured. Sand for bedding purposes should be selected with advice from your material supplier. Lay the pavers according to the pattern and design you have planned.

Place them close together. There are paver designs with space bumps incorporated into them. To cut pavers to size, use a diamond saw, masonry chisel or mechanical splitter and wear safety glasses. Sand is sifted over the surface in order to fill up the joints and lock the pavers into place.

The sand should be fine-grained rather than coarse-grained. Spread the reference stakes about 7 feet from each other. Finally, spread the crushed gravel. Ensure the gravel is properly leveled by running a straight lumber though out the whole area, always making sure the gravel is at the same height of the stakes. Edge restraints are necessary in order to help avoid sand shifting, paver loosening, and holding the shape of your project over the years.

These edge restraints are offered in plastic, aluminum or even steel. When purchasing, keep in mind you will have to bend and cut them in order to adapt them to your project shape. Now spread the sand through the whole area and level it with the lumber making sure it is at the same height as the stakes. Start in a degree corner and continue extending the paved area according to the pattern of your choice along the longest straight line.

Place each unit straight down, snugged together as close as possible. At this point, you want to avoid sand shifting at all costs in order to keep the leveling you so hardly worked for. That too is to avoid sand shifting. As you continue, use a straight edge to check for leveling and if necessary correct a paver height by softly tapping with a rubber mallet.

Finish laying all the pavers you can, lastly, prepare the pavers you will need to cut, by placing them on top of where they should fit and marking with chalk how much you will need to cut.



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